Monday, 16 January 2017

What are Peptides?

Science has proven that peptides can help manage wrinkles in your skin and reverse the signs of ageing.

What are Peptides for Skin Care?

Human skin is comprised mostly of collagen. Collagen is a protein comprised of long segments of amino acids arranged like a chain.

1. Collagen provides a foundation and thickness for skin
2. Women under 30 have ample collagen, which results in smooth, tight skin
3. The rest of us have less collagen -  skin tends to be thinner, revealing more wrinkles
When collagen breaks down, short segments of amino acids are formed. These are the tiny proteins and active molecules known as peptides. Peptides in skin care can provide significant anti-ageing benefits.

What Science Says About Peptides

 Independent studies seem to suggest peptides are, actually, effective.
A 12-weeks, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-faced clinical study comparing a moisturizer with palmitoyl pentapeptide to a placebo has found that the former significantly reduced fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen (you know, that thing that is essential to keep skin firm and elastic?)

Skin Care Peptides Encourage Collagen Production for More Youthful Skin-When collagen is depleted by age and environmental factors, including sunlight, it is not fully replaced. As a result, smooth, young skin slowly becomes thinner and wrinkled over time. As collagen deteriorates, it produces certain peptides.

Research from the National Institutes of Health (NIH) shows that these peptides send a "message" to your skin that it has lost collagen and needs to generate more. When skin care peptides are applied topically, your skin "thinks" that it's a collagen break down product and that your body needs to manufacture new collagen. So you can successfully minimise wrinkles and give your skin a more youthful appearance with the application of skin care peptides that trigger the production of collagen.

It is therefore important to use a good peptide wrinkle cream.

The most commonly used peptide in skin care is Matrixyl (palmitoyl- or oligopeptide pentapeptide).

 This is a neuropeptide that reduces fine lines very well.  Research shows that  the right peptide skin cream can play an important role in repairing wounds and improving skin conditions. including eczema and dermatitis.

Wrinkle creams containing anti aging peptides are popular and effective skin care products. Argireline (Acetyl hexapeptide) has been marketed as a safer, less expensive, and non-invasive alternative to Botox. This anti-ageing peptide works by causing facial muscles to relax, thereby minimizing wrinkles. It is often combined with Leuphasyl, which relaxes tiny muscles under the skin. This is particularly helpful for fading wrinkles around the eyes and for forehead wrinkles. Octapeptide is a lengthened version of Argireline. By making the small muscles under your skin longer and reducing muscle tension, octapeptide fades the appearance of fine lines.

Scientists at the NIH discovered that Matrixyl 3000 triggers the formation of several important skin components, including elastin and collagen.  Scientific research reveals that after four months, the anti-aging peptide Matrixyl may decrease wrinkle depth by 27%, roughness by 13%, and wrinkle size by 36%, when used two times each day on the face and the neck area.

SkinCeutical Metacell Renewal B3
A comprehensive daily emulsion formulated to improve the appearance of early signs of ageing

Metacell Renewal B3 utilizes a patent-pending aqueous emulsion to deliver a high concentration of 5% niacinamide (vitamin B3) combined with a firming tripeptide concentrate, and 15% pure glycerin to address early signs of photoageing. While signs of photoageing appear at different intensities according to skin biology, lifestyle, geography, sun protection behavior, and skincare regimen, they have a multiplicative effect, creating a prematurely-aged appearance. This comprehensive daily emulsion visibly improves these early signs of photoageing by increasing cell turnover to resurface skin, help reclarify and even skin tone, and improve the appearance of wrinkles and surface elasticit

  1.     Promotes skin renewal by increasing cell turnover
  2.     Strengthens skin’s moisture barrier
  3.     Reduces the appearance of discoloration and blotchiness
  4.     Lightweight emulsion delivers intense hydration without a heavy or tacky feel
  5.     Helps improve the appearance of skin’s firmness


5% Niacinamide (vitamin B3): Also known as vitamin B3, Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of skin discoloration and strengthens skin’s moisture barrier

2.5% Firming Tri-Peptide concentrate: A blend of powerful peptides helps maintain skin’s natural hyaluronic acid levels, reduces the look of fine lines, and improves the appearance of firmness

15% Pure Glycerin: This humectant has water-binding properties that delivers intense hydration without a heavy or tacky feel

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic

Vitamin C

Another Skin protector , antiager, antioxidant  vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis. When topically applied, it can boost its production too.

It works even better when paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid. They work well together to provide superior  protection from UV & infrared  rays .Ferulic is an antioxidant that makes other antioxidants more effective.

Like all the best skincare ingredients, vitamin C can irritate skin in high doses. If your skin is sensitive, use it sparingly. You might like to start with Serum 10. Skinceutical antioxidants are  packaged in an air-tight, opaque glass bottles. Vitamin C goes off  quickly when exposed to light and air.

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment-

As the first product to contain the powerful combination of vitamins C + E and ferulic acid, this serum has achieved cult status.

Ceramides are unsung skincare heroes. They are an oily wax (the name derives from the Latin word cera, which means wax) that makes up, together with other substances, the glue that holds skin cells together. Like all good things, they deplete with age. It’s part of the reason why our skin becomes thinner, drier, and wrinklier as we get older.

There are nine types of ceramides. Six of them are naturally found in our skin. The types of ceramides used in cosmetics are usually synthetically made in a lab.

Then, there are phytoceramides. They are derived from plants. Actually, phytoceramides in cosmetics are usually derived from yeast.

Why are ceramides so good for the skin?   Ceramides waterproof  the skin.

The barrier they create has two functions:

  • It keeps moisture in, preventing skin from becoming dry and cracked. This makes them a must for those of you who have dry skin.
  • It keeps bacteria, germs, pollutants, and all sort of nasty stuff out of the body. This prevents infections and irritations. If your skin is sensitive, choose a moisturizer packed with ceramides.

Ceramides don’t just prevent dry and broken skin. They can also help fix it. When the barrier that keeps skin healthy breaks down in places, allowing moisture to evaporate and irritants to attack skin, ceramides fill in the gaps, encouraging skin health.

To see the best result you should combine ceramides with cholesterol  and free fatty acids  They form what scientists call “crystalline lamellar structures,” which have amazing moisture-retaining properties.

An example of this combination is SkinCeutical Triple Lipid Restore ;

  • Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 is an anti aging cream formulated with a maximized concentration of lipids: 2% pure ceramides, 4% natural cholesterol, and 2% fatty acids. This unique anti aging lipid correction cream contains the first 2:4:2 cholesterol-dominant ratio to help restore skin's external barrier and support natural self-repair, while potently nourishing aging skin for improvement in visible signs of accelerated ageing. Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 has been clinically proven to improve the visible appearance of skin smoothness, laxity, pores, and overall radiance. Lipids are natural compounds found in skin. While there are many kinds of lipids, ceramides, natural cholesterol, and fatty acids are the predominant forms. With age, lipid production declines, impacting barrier function and natural self-repair. As a consequence, accelerated visible signs of ageing appear such as skin roughness, uncomfortable tightness, dullness, and loss of facial fullness.
  • Restores essential skin lipids: ceramides, natural cholesterol, and fatty acids
  • Improves the look of skin fullness, texture, and pore appearance
  • Improves the appearance of skin evenness and overall radiance
  • Provides improved hydration in 24 hours, ideal for dry skin
  • Unique stabilisation system in a lightweight and fast-absorbing texture

Retin A

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, unclogs pores, smooths skin and reduces discolouration   

One of the ingredients everyone should incorporate in their skincare routine is Retinoids. They are derivates of Vitamin A and include Retin-A, Renova (tretinoin) Retinoic acid, Retinol, Retinyl linoleate, Retinyl palmitate and Tazarotene. These ingredients were first used in the 1970s to treat acne, but people  discovered that during the treatment their skin had improved in many other ways.

 Here’s what Retinoids can do for your skin:

1. Retinoids prevent and reduce wrinkles

All those anti-ageing ingredients commonly found in beauty products don’t reduce the wrinkles you already have but can only prevent new ones from forming. Some also contain ingredients like silicones that temporarily fill them in reducing their appearance, but nothing can get rid of wrinkles once they’re formed. Nothing bar Retinoids. Retinoids are the only thing that so far has been scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles thanks to its ability to stimulate the production of Hyaluronic Acid and collagen, which are the substances that give skin its structure, firmness and fullness. And not only do Retinoids stimulate their production, but they also slow down their depletion (which happens as we get old) preventing new wrinkles from forming! Of course you shouldn’t expect miracle results overnight, but with prolonged use you’ll see an improvement.

2. Retinoids treat acne .If you have acne, retinoids can help. It has a great ability to unclog pores.

3. Retinoids fade hyperpigmentation spots

Hyperpigmentation (or dark spots on the skin) can be caused by several things: the sun, melasma, hormones, even cuts and bruises. Whatever the cause, Retinoids help speed up the skin’s natural cell turn over (the process by which skin replaces itself) so that these spots fade much faster.

Some tips on how to use Retinoids

Retinoids may be fantastic and beneficial ingredients, but like all good things in life, they don’t come without side effects.

Here are a few tips on how to avoid them and get the best results from Retinoids.

– Because of their exfoliating action they can cause redness, burning, stinging and flaky skin in some people, especially those with sensitive skin.Start with once a week. In addition, apply only a very small amount and don’t use any other type of exfoliant or it might be too much for your skin, which will react badly. Apply Retin A as if it were gold - a tiny amount - do not apply another cream over it .
Apply to dry skin.Only use at night . Appy SPF next morning.

– Another side effect of their exfoliating properties is that they make skin more susceptible to sun burns and sun damage in general. For this reason,only  use Retinoids at night. remember to also use a broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

– Retinoids should never be used in conjunction with AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) as they will make them less effective.

– Pregnant women and women that are breastfeeding should avoid using Retinoids. That’s because taking Retinoids orally can be harmful to the child and cause birth defects. And although there is no proof suggesting that Retinoids applied topically have the same side effects, dermatologists recommend to avoid them while pregnant or breastfeeding.

Science behind Skinceutical Retinol
Designed for efficacy and stability, SkinCeuticals’ Retinol is formulated with high concentrations of pure retinol and enhanced with stabilisation and delivery technologies to help ensure effective absorption.

  1. Unlike products that use traditional encapsulation technology, our innovative delivery system captures and stabilises Retinol.
  2. 'SkinCeuticals’ Retinol products contain an innovative delivery system based on the skin’s lipid structure to help ensure absorption. 

Repechage Biolight Miracle Facial

Biolight Miracle Facial

This signature professional treatment helps brighten and diminish the appearance of hyper-pigmentation due to the sun, acne scars and hormonal changes while enriching the skin with its added anti-aging benefits. Clinical studies have shown that its marine and botanical actives work together to uncover a radiant, more luminous complexion.

Facial properties:

  •     Cleansing: Our cleanser is formulated to remove dryness and impurities that dull and darken the complexion.
  •     Exfoliate: This intensive skin treatment focuses on resurfacing and renewing skin with less irritation than standard glycolic peels.
  •     Tone: Our alcohol free toner refines and clarifies skin, leaving it noticeably smoother and brighter.
  •     Massage: 5 minute massage with our breakthrough serum which is clinically proven to rapidly help brighten and even the skin tone.
  •     Second Massage: 10 minute massage with our power-packed cream with three clinically proven peptides to even skin tone and key ingredients to reduce oxidative stress.
  •     Mask: Ulva Lactuca Extract provides further skin brightening as well as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Helps prevent skin aging and encourages cell renewal.
  •     Tone: Our alcohol free toner refines and clarifies skin, leaving the skin refreshed and calm.
  •     Exfoliate: Our Glyco-Sea Glycolic Peel is an intensive skin treatment that focuses on resurfacing and renewing skin with less irritation than standard glycolic peels.
  •     Hydrates & Protects: This daily moisturizer protects skin from the environment with Zinc Oxide mineral protection.

Repechage Hydra Medic Facial

Hydra Medic Facial for Problem Skin

The Hydra Medic Acne Facial Treatment with Desincrustation Mask cleanses pores, purifies and controls existing breakouts while helping to prevent new ones from forming. It also reduces oil from overly active sebaceous glands, while maintaining skin moisture balance. This pure and refining treatment allows cleansing deep down while soothing and healing lesions, leaving skin with renewed freshness and purity. Proven results! Dermatologist Tested.
Facial properties:

  1.     Cleanse: Our cleanser contains Triclosan to help control problem causing bacteria. Soap-free formula deep cleanses without causing dryness. Anti-oxidant synergistic tea blend soothes inflamed skin, leaving it soft and smooth.
  2.     Targeted Care: A special serum is applied to all affected areas using an effleurage massage and steam to soften the client’s skin.
  3.     Desincrustation Mask: Our Desincrustation Mask is applied to the face and neck, followed by a careful extraction process.
  4.     Tones: Salicylic acid controls excess oil and unclogs pores. Synergistic tea blend and powerful anti-oxidant forumla soothes and clams the skin.
  5.     Mud Mask: This mask applied evenly to the face. It deep pore cleanses and the mineral-rich sea mud & ichtammol absorbs oil without drying out the skin. It also helps prevent future breakouts.
  6.     Calming Mask: Containing both organic Buttermilk and a calming Patented Tea Blend, this mask is both cooling and soothing.
  7.     Hydration: Porphyridium Complex (micro alga) helps control excess oil and shine while reducing dryness and flakiness. Synergistic tea blend helps to soothe and calm irritated skin. Zinc Oxide provides daily protection, while matting the skin and reducing redness.

Repechage Seaweed Facial

Seaweed Facial Mask

The Seaweed Facial Mask is the express ticket to clean and healthy skin. A soothing massage with C-Serum followed by a cooling and soothing fresh seaweed mask. Skin is clean, refreshed, healthy and vibrant.

  •     C-Serum Massage: This concentrated seaweed serum is a multi-vitamin supplement for the skin. It is gently massaged into the skin to help speed-up cell regeneration, healing and restoring.
  •     Seaweed Mask: Pure, fresh European seaweed is applied to the facial skin to help rejuvenate, tone and firm the skin dramatically.